Terracing

Terracing in Wood County is not nearly as important as it is in other locations, since we are pretty flat.  However, it is still something to consider when landscaping and changing the slope of your yard.  Terraces can offer mini- gardens throughout your landscape.  On more sloped ground, terraces can make planting possible.  When done, terraces prevent erosion by shortening the long slope into a series of shorter, more level slopes.

Adding garden beds to a retaining wall is an example of terracing.  While we do not have too many locations in the county that would be this drastic there are still spots in your landscape that this could be done.

Tiered beds alongside steps from a porch can also give curb appeal with keeping your soil in place.





Adding tiered beds on an otherwise flat yard can add dimension and appeal on an otherwise flat landscape.

Materials for TerracesNumerous materials are available for building terraces. Treated wood is often used because of several advantages: it is easy to work with, blends well with plants, and is often less expensive than other materials. There are many types of treated wood on the market--from railroad ties to landscaping timbers. These materials will last for years. While there has been some concern about using these treated materials around plants, studies by Texas A&M University and the Southwest Research Institute concluded that these materials are not harmful to gardens or people when used as recommended. Other materials for terraces include bricks, rocks, concrete blocks, and similar masonry materials. Some masonry materials are made specifically for walls and terraces and can be more easily installed by a homeowner than other materials such as field stone and brick. Most stone or masonry products tend to be more expensive than wood.

On the Farm

Terraces catch runoff water, let the water soak into the ground, and deliver the excess safely to the bottom of a hillside much like eavespouts on a house. The earthen ridges built around a hillside on the contour cut a long slope into shorter slopes, preventing water from building to a highly erosive force. Some terraces are seeded to grass, which provides erosion control and a nesting area for birds. Terraces are often used in combination with other conservation practices to provide more complete soil protection.

Stripcropping is a common erosion control practice on many farms. Farmers often alternate strips of corn or soybeans with strips of hay. Many farmers put erosion prone areas into permanent cover.

Plant a Tree today!

Happy Arbor Day!!!

The first Arbor Day was set for April 10, 1872 in Nebraska.  J. Sterling Morton a Detroit native had recently moved to the Nebraska Territory with his wife, who was also a nature lover.  Soon they had planted many trees, shrubs and flowers around their home.  Morton was a journalist and become the editor of Nebraska’s first newspaper.  Spreading agricultural information and enthusiasm for trees, Morton was on a mission to bring more trees to the empty plains.  The trees were needed not just because they missed them, but they were needed for windbreaks, fuel and building materials, as well as for shade.  Morton proposed the tree planting holiday and prizes were offered to counties and individuals for properly planting the largest number of trees that day.  It is estimated more than one million trees were planted that day.
Over the years many other states adopted Arbor Day with the most common observance on the last Friday in April.  Although celebrated for many years prior, Ohio did not pass legislation for the official observance of Arbor Day until 1953.

Tree Planting
Trees in your backyard can be home to many different types of wildlife. Trees can also reduce your heating and cooling costs, help clean the air, add beauty and color, provide shelter from the wind and the sun, and add value to your home.

One of the first steps when making the decision to plant trees is to Call Before You Dig!



Arbor Day has 4 different videos on how to plant trees.  While there are a lot of similarities between the different kinds of trees you can get; balled and burlap, bare root or containerized, each needs just subtle differences to ensure good planting.



On the Farm

Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and food for wildlife. Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used as barriers to slow winds that blow across large cropped fields and through farmsteads. Windbreaks can be beneficial in reducing blowing and drifting snow along roadways. Farmstead and field windbreaks and tree plantings are key components of a conservation system. They also help prevent dust particles from adding to smog over urban areas.

For more information on tree planting

Rain Gardens

A rain garden is a garden in a low spot that catches and slows rain water from down spouts, driveways, parking lots and roads.  It allows for the water to infiltrate into the soil with the help of deep rooted plats.  The garden is planted in a shallow basin as part of the landscaping plan and will filter out pollutants from the runoff it captures.  Rain gardens can be designed in all shapes and sizes and may include formally arranged plants, fields of wildflowers, stone culverts and other beautiful features.

Rain gardens are used to emulate the drainage system found in nature prior to development.  They promote infiltration of rain into the soils.  Rain gardens provide water storage, water quality improvement, wildlife habitat and beautification to your landscape.

These videos help to explain more about rain gardens and why a rain garden is beneficial.  While they are for different watersheds, the still drain into Lake Erie

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=146893712160170&set=vb.165568733469406&type=2&theater

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WDSIsYSJjVI

Rain Gardens Mimic Natural Conditions by:

1. Slowing runoff near sources
2.Maintaining natural hydrology
3.Absorbing Rainfall
4.Filtering Pollutants
5.Providing Habitat

More information on rain gardens can be found here

Pest Management

No one likes to have perfected their landscape only to find it struggling soon after.  Yard pests can include weeds, diseases, insects and even wildlife.  Weeds are considered any plant that is not growing where you want it.  This could be something you planted last year and is returning as a volunteer or something that has moved across your landscape.    Diseases are a result of fungi, bacteria, viruses and other organisms including some that may not be classified yet.  Insects are the first thing that I think of when I think of pests.  They can be big like a grasshopper or so small that you can’t see them until the damage is done.  When I think of wildlife the first thing that I think of is a deer.  But they aren’t the only ones doing damage, rabbits, slugs, mites and birds are also culprits.

The first step is to identify the problem. Careful identification of the problem is essential before control practices can be used. Some insect damage may appear to be a disease, especially if no visible insects are present. Nutrient problems may also mimic diseases. Herbicide damage resulting from misapplication of chemicals also can be mistaken for other problems.

Because each scenario is different I have linked to Ohioline to help you identify and manage your pests.  This is another helpful article that discusses Integrated Pest Management (IPM)

On The Farm

Proper pest management on the farm involves a variety of practices, such as rotating crops to reduce disease and insect problems, and establishing tall grass hedges to provide habitat for beneficial insects. Many farmers now monitor their fields regularly -- a practice called scouting -- to keep track of insect and weed populations. Only when populations reach a level where an unacceptable amount of damage is likely are direct control measures initiated. When pesticides are necessary, farmers fill and clean tanks away from water sources, mix only necessary amounts, and apply only to land where problems exist.

Many farmers are using IPM techniques for effective and economic control of pests. IPM programs have been developed for numerous crops including apples, grapes, corn, and alfalfa. Based on monitoring of specific pests, farmers apply only those pesticides needed for adequate control.

Nutrient Management "4 R Tomorrow"

There are twenty nutrients that are required for plants. Of these, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are required in relatively large amounts. Nitrogen is associated with lush vegetative growth, adequate phosphorus is required for flowering and fruiting, and potassium is necessary for durability and disease resistance. Calcium, sulfur, and magnesium are also required in comparatively large quantities. These six nutrients are referred to as macronutrients.
The other nutrients, referred to as micronutrients, are required in very small amounts. These include such elements as copper, zinc, iron, and boron. While both macro and micronutrients are required for good plant growth, over-application can be as detrimental as a deficiency. Over-application of plant nutrients not only may impair plant growth, but may contaminate groundwater by leaching through the soil or pollute surface waters by washing away.

Making sure the right amounts of nutrients are added to the soil is something that many Ohioans are watching very closely.  4R Tomorrow is a program created by the Ohio Federation of Soil and Water Conservation Districts (OFSWCD), with the support of the Ohio Soybean Council, to educate and promote wise nutrient management to conserve water quality and soil health using the 4R nutrient stewardship principals and conservation practices.  The 4R principles are a comprehensive, innovative and science-based nutrient management approach that enhances environmental protection and improves sustainability.

The 4R concept is to implement the four “rights”
1.  Right fertilizer source,
2.  At the right rate,
3.  At the right time,
4.  With the right placement

You can decide what nutrients you need to add to your soil by getting a soil test done.  We offer soil test kits in our office through Michigan State University Extension.  It is suggested to take a soil sample every three years.  An important thing to remember is once you have started the process of soiling sampling you will want to stick with the same lab as test results could artificially vary based on the way that labs run their tests.

Some other things to consider and ways to make this work in your yard:

-Always choose a fertilizer that is phosphorus-free, unless a soil test shows a need for this nutrient.
-Feed your lawn in the spring and early fall when the grass is actively growing.
-Set your mower at the highest setting. Taller grass is stronger grass. It builds deeper roots that enable the plant to find water and nutrients.  It also better withstands periods of heat and drought.
-Use a mulching mower, so that grass clippings and leaves can be returned to the soil where they will break down and return natural nutrients and organic matter to the soil.
-Sweep leaves, grass clippings, and fertilizer that land on driveways and sidewalks back onto the grass to help keep nutrients out of waterways.

On The Farm

Farms need to monitor their soils to make sure that they have the right mix of nutrients available to the crop they are going to grow.  Now that more research is available to the farmer, soil sampling is becoming more important.  This article from OSU Extension talks about the benefits and that it does pay to use variable rate technology(vrt). Technology is helping to improve the bottom line for farmers.  Fertilizer dealers are now able to grid sample a field and only apply nutrients to the areas that need it instead of a general broadcast across the entire field that may not have needed the nutrient. 

Nutrient Deficiency Bulletin University of Arizona and Ohio State

More information can be found here

Mulching

Mulching is a simple and beneficial practice that you can use in your garden. Mulch is simply a protective layer of a material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic -- such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials -- or inorganic -- such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic mulches have numerous benefits.

Santa Rosa Clean is utilizing both organic and inorganic mulches in their projects.

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil. Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches, can be a good choice for areas that you know will always need to be covered with mulch.  Since they do not breakdown over time, keep in mind that they will need to be removed if you chose to change your landscape.

Benefits of Mulch·         Protects the soil from erosion ·         Reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains·         Conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering ·         Maintains a more even soil temperature ·         Prevents weed growth ·         Keeps fruits and vegetables clean ·         Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp ·         Provides a "finished" look to the garden

This article breaks down the various types of materials that can be used for mulch.

On The Farm

Farmers use mulches in many ways. Conservation tillage is a common practice that creates a mulch on the soil surface. Unlike plowing all crop residue into the soil, conservation tillage leaves the crop residue on top of the soil. The pieces of corn stalk, straw, or bean stems help protect the soil against wind and water erosion.  Research is showing that leaving crop residues helps hold carbon in the soil and aids in reducing greenhouse gases.

Mulching is a common practice among strawberry growers in northern climates. In this situation, mulch is used to protect the crop during the winter and to help prevent early blooming of the plants. Plants that bloom too early are more likely to be damaged by spring frosts. The mulch also helps keep the berries cleaner, protecting them from soil splashing on them in the rain.

Inorganic mulches are also widely used in commercial agriculture. Clear plastic mulch can be particularly beneficial in giving warm season crops a head start. The clear plastic acts as a mini-greenhouse, warming the soil underneath it. Particularly where early sweet corn brings a premium price, this practice can give a grower a couple of weeks head start.

This information and more can be found here

 

Snapshot Update

This update is from Rise Labig with Ohio Country Journal/Ohio Ag Net.

Rain remains in the forecast for all locations this week.  This morning the Toledo area saw a brief storm and have 1-2” forecast.

Greenville area has already seen some showers, and more rain was moving in from the west as I type this.  Forecasted amounts vary from 1-2”.  We received more than our fair share last week, so we would be happy to share it with our friends south of I-70…who received an inch or less last week.
The Logansport IN area had storms this morning which brought amounts of .5” to as much as 1.5” in the NW corner of the state.  Rain is forecast for the week as well, and they, too, received 3+’ of rain last week.

The Champaign ILL area received an inch overnight, both north and south of I-74.  There was some corn planted, and they wish it wasn’t.

The Peoria ILL area had a tenth overnight, and have 2-3” forecast this week.
Central MN still has 70% snow cover.  They hope to miss the snow with the next winter storm, but are at least two weeks out.

NW Iowa is seeing some sun for the first time this morning.  The Dakotas had 15-16” of snow last week, and have another winter storm forecast – although “only” five inches this time around…NW Iowa expects to miss the snow but get rain.  Their subsoil moisture has definitely improved, but there is no water running in any tiles.

Expect the markets to pay close attention to all of the 6-10 day weather forecasts and react accordingly.  Ohio’s crop progress (http://ocj.com/2013/04/ohios-first-crop-progress-report-of-2013/) shows us at 1% compared to last year.  While Ohio farmers would like to be in the fields, it is not “late” yet….but the tractors and planters are fired up and ready to go!

Cover Crops aren't just for farm fields!

Cover crops are grasses, legumes or small grains grown to protect and benefit the soil.  Tilling, weeding, harvesting and foot traffic can all destroy your soil structure.  Once cover crops are planted, they are left to grow, not harvest.  Allowing them to grow will help revitalize soil structure.   The benefits cover crops provide are often taking place when your soil is otherwise in a “dead” state.  Most cover crops are planted during the non–growing season.  Different plants provide different benefits to the soil. 

Benefits of Cover Crops

·         Reduce soil erosion and compaction

·         Increase water infiltration

·         Hold nutrients and minerals in the soil that are otherwise lost during the winter

·         Suppress weed growth

·         Improve air and water movement in soil

·         Support microbial life in the soil which helps soil quality

·         Improve soil health

Managing your cover crops is a very important step.  Traditionally cover crops are plowed under, crushed, cut or pulled and used as mulch or compost.  The advantage of rolling, crushing or using winter kill varieties is to leave the soil surface covered and mostly undisturbed, which will prevent weeds from growing.  Depending which variety you chose to plant will depend on the management that is required.  If you chose a winter kill variety, this will be easier to manage as long we get a killing frost.  Should you chose a grass, you will need to make sure that you get it killed before it goes to seed or be prepared to deal with it once it has gone to seed.  Also know that what you plant could have an effect on what you are going to plant into it, some need time to decompose into the soil before you can plant into them.  For example, sudex (a fast-growing sorghum-Sudan grass hybrid) produces gargantuan amounts of biomass (leaf, stem and roots), but fresh sudex residue in the soil inhibits the growth of tomatoes, lettuce and broccoli. Oats, wheat and other cover crop plants also produce allelopathic substances that can temporarily hinder the germination and growth of other plants, too, but not in quantities sufficient to cause serious disturbances in the garden. If you chop in fresh cover crop residues, just plan to wait two to three weeks before sowing crop seeds.  Tilling or pulling the cover crop is not recommended as it will destroy root and earthworm paths and also reduce the beneficial microorganism population.

On The Farm

According to Alan Sundermeier, OSU Extension agent, recent environmental and ecological awareness has started a resurgence in cover crop use. Although cover crops have been used for centuries, today's modern farmer has grown up in a generation which has replaced the use of cover crops with widespread use of fertilizers and herbicides. Now as some farmers are trying to use cover crops, they lack the information and experience to be successful. University and private researchers are going back to the basics and are experimenting with beneficial plants to determine how they can best be used in modern farming practices to supplement or replace purchased inputs. Cover crops have an important role in successful sustainable farming systems.

A Good article on cover crops
Walnut Creek Seeds
Extension Bulletin

To find out more on cover crops come to our workshop:

 

Composting

All organic matter eventually decomposes. Composting speeds the process by providing an ideal environment for bacteria and other decomposing microorganisms.  The final product looks and feels like fertile garden soil.  This dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling stuff works wonders on all kinds of soil and provides vital nutrients to help plants grow and look better.  It keeps the nutrients were we want them, out of the landfills.  Decomposing organisms need four key elements to thrive: nitrogen, carbon, moisture, and oxygen. For best results, mix materials high in nitrogen (such as clover, fresh grass clippings, and livestock manure) and those high in carbon (such as dried leaves and twigs).

By composting your yard waste you are helping to reduce the waste that is going to landfills.  Yard waste is considered grass clippings, fallen leaves, weeds, straw/hay, sawdust, hedge and tree trimmings and the remains of garden plants.  Roughly 20% of what landfills take in is yard waste.

There are many different styles of composting.  Some of them include holding units, turning units, heaps, sheet composting and pit or trench composting.  Each style has it benefits and choosing the correct style is important to get the most efficient composter for your needs.  We offer 3 different options for compost bins.  Orders are due at the end of every month. 

Illinois Extension has put together a good website and the NRCS tip sheet on composting are good places to locate more information.  You can also check out our Pinterest page for more info on conservation practices.

On the Farm

On the farm, potential waste is turned into a resource that saves money and helps the environment. Producers use livestock manure to fertilize crops. When manure is properly handled, it can be safely applied to the land without the risk of polluting water. Composting is also practiced in some poultry operations. The compost is used as fertilizer on the farms and for lawns and gardens.

Backyard Wetland

A mini-wetland in your yard can provide many of the same benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can replace the important natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost when your community was developed.  A wetland in your backyard will temporarily store, filter, and clean runoff water from your roof and lawn. It will provide habitat for many interesting creatures--from butterflies and bees to toads, frogs, and birds.  Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears dry during most of the growing season.  If you have a naturally occurring wet spot in your yard, or a low swale or drainage way with heavy clay soils, you easily can turn it into a wetland paradise. Even if you do not have a natural wet spot, you can establish an area in your yard to grow many of the beautiful plants associated with wetlands.

A wetland is simply any area where water covers the soil or keeps it saturated for at least two or three weeks during the growing season. This is different than a rain garden, which while having some of the same benefits drains in less than 72 hours.  You will usually find wetlands anywhere water accumulates at a rate faster than it drains away. Some are inundated year-round while others only hold water for brief periods in the spring. Most wetlands are covered with water for less than a month during the summer. Wetlands dominated by grasses, cattails, and similar herbaceous vegetation are referred to as marshes, while wooded wetlands, dominated by shrubs and trees, are called swamps.

Invasive plants

Native plants are plants that were located in Ohio before 1750.  Of the roughly 3,000 plants in the state 700-800 are non-native plants.  Most of these species never stray far from where they are introduced (gardens, urban areas, agricultural fields), yet some become very invasive and displace native plants in woodlands, wetlands, prairies, and other natural areas. Non-native plants have been introduced for erosion control, horticulture, forage crops, medicinal use, and wildlife foods as well as simply by accident.  Sometimes we plant non-native plants for landscaping or wildlife habitat without realizing the problems they may cause when they escape into natural areas. Without natural predators or controls, invasive non-native plants are able to spread quickly and force out native plants. In Ohio, several non-native plants are invading woodlands and displacing native spring wildflowers. Other non-native plants are impacting our wetlands by creating monocultures. Native plant diversity is important for wildlife habitat as many animals depend on a variety of native plants for food and cover.

Purple Loosestrife is listed as one of the Top 10 plants along with Garlic Mustard

ODNR has a list of the Top 10 Ohio Invasive Plants and a more extensive list of the plants.

On The Farm

In the rural landscape, wetlands filter chemicals, excess nutrients, and sediment from flowing water, protecting streams and drinking water sources. They also provide habitat for many wildlife species.  Across the country, many farmers voluntarily return formerly drained wetlands in crop fields and pasture to fully functioning wetlands. Many of these acres were marginally productive and returning them to wetlands provides significant ecological, economic, water purification, and recreational benefits.  Many farmers enhance their wetlands with nesting structures for ducks and other birds, put in plants and annual seeding to provide winter food and cover for wildlife, and establish native wildflowers to make the landscape more attractive.

This and more information can be found at here

Backyard Ponds

Backyard ponds and water gardens are for birds, butterflies, frogs, fish, you and your family. These ponds are typically small, sometimes no larger than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. They may also be built in barrels, tubs or other patio containers. Water is effective in drawing wildlife to your backyard. It is also a natural, relaxing, and scenic addition that can provide interest and enjoyment.

When deciding on the location of your pond consider locating it where you can see it from a deck or patio. Have it blend in with its natural surroundings. Elevate the soil around the pond slightly so that excess water will flow away from the pond, not into it. Make sure that any drainage from the pond is away from your house. Plan to landscape around the pond this will provide habitat for frogs and birds that need land and water. If you plan to use a pump to re-circulate water, use a filter, or light the area, be sure electrical service is available. There will be less maintenance if your pond is not under trees. When thinking about plants, remember most aquatic plants will grow better in full sun.

If you do not have space in your yard for a built-in earthen pond, you could consider a "tub" pond or large water bowls. 

I found this tub pond on Waddleeahchee.com’s blog with step-by-step instructions on how they put it together.  These can be placed on the patio and provide many of the same benefits as a built-in pond. There are numerous tub kits available that can be as simple as adding water, a pump, and some plants. They can also be moved inside in the winter as long as good lighting is provided for plants.

If you are considering an earthen pond, I found a good tutorial at thisoldhouse.com.  It lists the step-by-step directions with pictures.

On The Farm
On the farm a properly located and maintained pond can reduce gully erosion and improve water quality. Ponds provide water for livestock, waterfowl, and fish; store water for emergencies; and add beauty to the landscape. Wildlife use ponds for water and habitat.

This information and more can be found here or join us for our pond clinic

If you are interested in joining us for the Pond Clinic, please register at 419-354-5517 or email wcswcd@woodswcd.com.

Can't make the clinic but need to order fish?  We are selling fingerlings!

Backyard Conservation Series

Just as they do on the farm, conservation practices on nonagricultural land can help increase food and shelter for birds and other wildlife, control soil erosion, reduce sediment in waterways, conserve water and improve water quality, inspire a stewardship ethic, and beautify the landscape.

"Backyard Conservation" shows you how conservation practices that have been helping farmers conserve and improve natural resources on agricultural land across the country can be adapted for use around your home. These practices help the environment and can make your yard more attractive and enjoyable. Most backyard conservation practices are easy to use. America's farmers and ranchers have been using these practices successfully for decades.

The everyday decisions we make at home greatly affect our environment.  Increased urbanization means more impervious surfaces and runoff and less wildlife habitat. Our water, soil, air, and wildlife depend on us for their protection and adopting conservation practices is one important way in which we can preserve the environment for future generations.

 

With spring working hard to make it's debut, we will target the following topics over the next month.

Backyard Ponds
Backyard Wetland
Composting
Cover Crops
Mulching
Nutrient Management
Pest Management
Rain Garden
Terracing
Tree Planting
Water Conservation
Wildlife Habitat  

Information was gathered from Natural Resources Conservation Services (NRCS)

Snapshot Tour of the Cornbelt

Below is the snapshot tour of the corn belt that Risë Labig from Ohio’s Country Journal and Ohio Ag Net, participates in.   Risë and I were grain buyers together.  This is a neat look into what's happening in the corn belt and helps to remind you to look past "your backyard".  This happens daily and there is a link below, where at 8:10 am CST you can listen to the audio report in its entirety.  

 

Good morning!

Today was our first day of the 2013 Snapshot Tour, hosted by Jay Calhoun of Colgon Commodities.  It is the 21^st year for the radio update on crop progress, weather, markets, etc across 7 of the cornbelt states.

Our first contributor is Mike Mock, from The Andersons Maumee office.  Their typical plant period for corn is April 20 – May 10^th.  Right now that looks to be on track.  They received very good moisture over the winter.  Wheat looks good this year, with very little abandonment expected. Because the wheat is slow to come out of dormancy this year – harvest could be pushed back a week or two, possibly affecting the amount of double crop bean acres.  The USDA said the inventories on old crop corn were large than expected…but Mike sees as big an impact on the amount of imported corn actually coming in to the lakes and east coast.  This is keeping basis in his area steady.

Paul from Hendersons, KY was unavailable this morning.  He is a great source for information on the river and gulf.

Risë reports from Greenville, OH.  Less than 25% of the wheat in this area has been top-dressed and is slow to come out of dormancy.  No field work in our immediate area other than getting on the fields for the wheat.  Travelling back from Columbus yesterday there was a lot of ground already worked on both the west side of St Rt 29 south of Mechanisburg, and nitrogen was being applied west of Urbana.  Moisture overall was excellent in the winter and we are in good shape.  Areas south of Columbus (Ross and Pickaway) have most wheat top-dressed, especially the gravely ground and report soil temps in the mid 30’s.

Pete Gill from the Camp Grove (Peoria area) ILL said they had a good winter with adequate snows and the soil did get recharged.  They like to have 50 degree days to plant corn and typically like to get corn in the ground  April 10^th – April 30^th.  They did get a lot of field work done in the fall, so once it gets fit it won’t take long to get it planted.

David Sheibel from the Bird Island, MN area (90 miles west of MSP) likes to report “statistics”.  They have a university reporting station 25 mi south of his location, and they reported that last October, normal soil moisture is 4-5”.  It was .02”.  Over the winter it typically get back to 6”.  It got to 1”.  David’s area did get a big snow two weeks ago which helped.  40% of that snow cover is left, and farther north they still have over 70% snow cover.  They typically plant by April 20-May 10^th.  It will push it to get started by that date in April this year…

Jarrod Creek reports from Denison, IA.  (SW).  He said his area is rather like the “red-headed stepchild” of receiving any moisture….they are starting out very dry…called it “bleak”.  They have not even received 2”  rain since the first of the year.  A lot of field work was done last fall, but no one has been in the fields anywhere yet.

Erin reports from Anselmo NE…about 1 hr 15 mineast of North Platte…about in the center of the state…The lack of moisture is depressing.  Many of the producers are very skeptical how they can get a crop in the ground, let alone get it up.  Stay tuned.

Wrapping it up each day, Steve Holz (Jaws) reports from Sheldon IA (very NW corner).  They have not replaced any moisture and are starting out very dry.  They still have frost in the ground..his guess it is still a 3 ft depth.  They need a warm rain.  No field work, but lots done last fall.  He said the Dakotas (where all the extra corn is going to be grown this year…per the USDA….) is on tap for more snow next Monday, so winter is not over for them yet.  He forecasts a late start and dry.

Summary – eastern corn belt is slowly seeing activity this week and has excellent moisture.  The eastern part of the western belt received respectable moisture but the western belt will bear watching.  It is cold and dry, with a late start expected.  Stay tuned…and expect volatility to continue!

Listen to this audio at:  http://colgancommodities.com/commentaries/snapshot-tour/.  It is free, but you may be required to sign in.

Feel free to email or text me pictures and comments on crop progress in your part of the state!